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This elevated shot shows the straight grained veneered maple top. The lightly tapered pedestal, the sculpted shape of the legs and the rounded edging make this a very simple, clean and classy table.


This project started with a full size drawing on 1/4 inch hardboard. There were some tricky angles that needed to be figured and this is the most accurate way I know to do that. Plus, later in the table's construction, this hardboard drawing will be cut up to use as a router template to shape the legs.


Starting with 6/4 hard maple stock, I milled enough lumber to build the entire pedestal to just over 1 1/4 inches thick.


After ripping the center stock for the "core" of the pedestal and gluing the two pieces together, I built a simple 2 degree taper sled to cut the leg verticals on the table saw.


Here are all the vertical members of the pedestal. After truing up the core and finish sanding the leg uprights to 1 1/4 inches thick, I cut the groove for the alignment splines on the router table. The next step is to make the table supports and feet. They will be attached to the leg uprights using double bridal joints.


I used the table saw and a tenon jig to cut the bridle joints. Because the legs taper at 2 degrees, I had to make support shims that would hold the parts at the correct angles. You can see the front of this foot is elevated off of the table to make a shallower cut in the front.


All the double bridle joints are cut and the fit is checked. I glued them together making sure they all formed a perfect 90 degree joint.


From the original drawing, I cut out the leg assembly template on the band saw and filed and sanded it to shape to use as a template on the router table.



After the legs were shaped using the template, they were then bull-nosed using a 3/4 inch round over bit on both sides. The corners of the center core were also rounded over. Here is the dry fit of the sculpted, but not yet sanded, leg assembly.


And a close up showing the detail of the rounded over edges.


Next, I started on the veneered top. I re-sawed 12 sheets of hard maple veneer at about 3/32 inch thick and drum sanded to 1/16 inch thick. This is enough to do the upper and underside of the table top. They were edge jointed and glued, three pair at a time. Bricks and clamps provide all the pressure needed. They were then glued into one solid sheet. I used a vacuum press to laminate both the upper and lower sheets to an MDF substrate all at one time.



The top is out of the vacuum press and trimmed with a flush trim router bit.


I rough cut and milled the stock for the 2 1/4 inch table top edging at 7/8 inch thick. It was cut wide and long enough to cut the necessary arc. I laid it all out for the best grain match possible and then numbered each piece.

This is the jig I use to cut the inside diameter arc in the edging stock on smaller tables . This diameter must be cut perfectly, so I made three cuts in scrap wood until I got it right. I then cut nine pieces total, one for a spare, and one for a clamping block.

With the top laid out and carefully marked in eight segments, I cut the 22.5 degree miters on the first piece and then marked and cut the biscuit slots. I cut clamping "ears" in the ends of each edge section to be able to clamp the end tightly to the segment already installed. After one segment is clamped on, I started fitting the next one. Each miter joint had to be fitted and trimmed, checked again, and probably trimmed again to insure a perfect fit. I let each segment dry for at least one hour before moving on to the next.


When the edging was done and the glue had dried, I secured the top assembly to a piece of MDF using double stick tape and routed the 34 inch diameter with a router trammel. The edge was then treated with a round over bit on both the top and bottom.

The upper brackets were screwed to the underside of the top and the holes plugged with maple.


Chisel And Bit Custom Crafted Furniture

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